People are always asking us for restaurant recommendations and as this much neglected corner of the cookery school needs re-branding after many years hiatus, we’ve decided to revive the blog, turning it into a dining review.
Our first visit needed to be somewhere plucky; Fowl, the beak to feet chicken carrel in Haymarket seemed to fit the bill.
The concept is all things chicken, cooked in as many different ways as possible, using every part of a bird, and is the collective brainchild of Jack Croft and Will Murray who trained under gastro prof Heston Blumenthal at Dinner.
They have a no reservations policy so our strategy, which worked well, was to arrive after 15:00 and lay siege to the coop.
Posters adorn the walls of Pierre Koffmann who was the inspiration behind the chicken’s head sticking out of the pie recipe, which was not on the menu; neither was the chicken corn dog, which is a little like going to see Möterhead and them not playing The Ace of Spades.
We plumped for their chicken caesar which was creamy, succulent and enjoyable. The hash browns were slabs of crunchy, cheesy toast, with a liberal spreading of tasty chicken fat and more than made up for the lack of pie, as did the triple crisp deep fried hot wings.
The menu changes regularly; singing solider James Blunt is supposedly creating the dishes for the spring tariff and may look to cull the chicken leg special which wasn’t exactly top of the pops, nor were frozen chips garnished with hearts; it’s the frozen that needs to change, the hearts were lovely.
One thing that should never leave the menu is the tart tatin which was cooked in chicken fat and worth crossing any road for.